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papeete tahiti capital french polynesia group islands south pacific port busy place vai’ete fills roulottes food carts evenings papeetee belvédère tahara'a black snad beach arahoho blowhole sand rocks rock prmintor promontory fa'aruma' waterfalls destination picturesque hikes leading large natural secluded setting footbridge iti source vaima polynesia ahiti largest island archipelago shaped like figure-8 it's divided nui larger western eastern peninsula black-sand beaches lagoons extinct volcanoes popular vacation destination