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abbas abbasi ali architect architectural architecture bahai bazaar beautiful been built chief column court decorate designed difficult during eastern empire entrance esfahan gateway grand had half heritage iran iranian isfahan islam jahan jewel located lotfollah masjed masterpieces moon mosque naghshi naqsh naturalistic originally painter paintings palace parts persia persian portal qapu recessed reign reza safavid shah shaykh sheikh spiral square staircase standing structure those unesco upper vast wall western