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himalayas tibetan monasteries leh palace pangong lake nubra valley khardung pass tso moriri hemis monastery thiksey shanti stupa magnetic hill stok kangri zanskar diskit indus river spituk lamayuru chang lehladakh road trip market shey namgyal tsemo gompa lehmanali highway festival museum chadar trek kargil drass lehkargil polo fame alchi phyang stakna sankar srinagar zorawar fort soma gurudwara pathar sahib war memorial saboo nimmu turtuk hanle kushok bakula rimpochee wetland conservation reserve karzok changthang wildlife sanctuary