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himalayas tibetan monasteries leh palace pangong lake nubra valley khardung pass tso moriri hemis monastery thiksey shanti stupa magnetic hill stok kangri zanskar diskit indus river spituk lamayuru chang leh-ladakh road trip market shey namgyal tsemo gompa leh-manali highway festival palace museum chadar trek kargil drass leh-kargil polo fame alchi phyang stakna sankar srinagar zorawar fort gompa soma gurudwara pathar sahib war memorial saboo nimmu turtuk hanle kushok bakula rimpochee wetland conservation reserve karzok changthang wildlife sanctuary