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ages air annually autumn betlemi blue border building caucasus center climb climber climbing cold country district dormant eastern ethnographically field force georgia georgian gergeti glacier highest hike hiking historically hosts ice kazbegi kazbek khevi landmark level located major mkinvartsveri mount mountains mtianeti mtskheta municipality near north northern orthodox part peak province region ridge route sky slope small snow stay stepantsminda stephantsminda stratovolcano thousands tourists town track tracker trip view village