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abadia caceres extremadura spain travel ambroz river sotofermoso palace door carved granite arch coat arms vertical rich history templars structure prominent families duke alba former glory beauty soto fermoso mansion ducal house monastery mudejarstyle courtyard outstanding deteriorated weed covered attractions landmark exceptional historic spot winter season restful calm peaceful relaxing quiet visiting valley garcilaso vega lope alfonso viii castile leon catholic monarchs juana mad philip historical artistic monument detail detail 16th century remains building