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art flower rock wall leaf graffiti food plant blue iron soil mural autumn sculpture clothing tree geology painting scott fischer’s memorial thukla pass route everest base camp nepalese himalayas “scott poignant reminder risks sacrifices mountaineering located open plateau outside village dughla khumbu valley day’s walk stupa fischer built sherpas 1996 solukhumbu district nepal popular stop trekkers climbers lobuche mountaineering camp nepal lobuche