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views camino del norte church santa marashy clifftop vistas coastal cliffs hikes scenery town colorful houses cudillero fishermen 039 village fishing port handcrafted souvenirs holy relics local atmosphere northern spain ocean peaceful ambiance picturesque streets pilgrim camaraderie community hostel rituals route journey passport religious pilgrimage scenic landscapes seaside beauty spiritual sunset traditional architecture boats walking trail saint james waymarking asturias cultural heritage historical sites lighthouse natural santiago compostela train line navia june 2023 street city center 2023 center