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food produce city market fruit marketplace plant vegetable flower bazaar greengrocer supermarket retail meal madeira famous excellent regional products largely extraordinary fertility soils combined subtropical climate mercado lavradores occupies prominent centre funchal living museum freshness vivacity tropicality archipelago's flavours stage commercial space everyday people visitors island atmosphere bustle building design tavares presents typical architecture immediately reflected intention great supply point façade fishmonger's decorated tile faience factory maria portugal painted themes panoply colours aromas