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transport waterway mountain village town road infrastructure river track tourism wall vacation coast walkway reservoir trail sea valley dernau germany 2023: surviving old ahr bridge damaged side flood disaster july 2021 destroyed idyllic eifel small turned giant wave changed riverbed flash houses situation february 2023 still rebuilding effort lifeline ahr valley river ahrtal disaster flood eifel flutkatastrophe ahrflut ahrflutkatastrophe eifelflut sommerhochwassre hochwasser hochwasserkatastrophe 2021 2023 destruction damage ruilding rebuilt destroyed wasteland accident climate change germany rhineland-palatinate village damaged wrecked rubble zerstörung