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endangered okondeka three damaraland kgalagadi wilderness namoutoni ungulate nature poaching wild alone kaokoland national horns waterhole arid richtersveld night okaukuejo saharan dolomite reflection southern khomas kunene alive marakele safari erongo swimming rhinoceros black grazing region rhino hardap park botswana namibia south africa blue kalahari mapungubwe mammal reserve tourism toed etosha kenya walking market illegal kruger white pilanesberg namaqua roadside addo barren odd two horn sub okaukeujo herbivorous