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architecture blue buddha buddhism buddhist burma burmese carved carving clear construction country craft crowded dagon devotee devotees dominate during dusk evening floor genuine gilded gold golden great guardian hill income kandawgyi lake landmark life local monks myanmar pagoda population practised pray prayers praying proportion pure relics religion religious sacred shrines shwedagon singuttara skyline spent statues stupa sunset teaching temple temples theravada tourists tradition twilight under various visitor walks west woman yangon zedi